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Build your own Gonk Droid



So you want to build your own Gonk Droid, huh? Well, here are the steps I used to build mine. I have to thank Gregg (Droidboy) Nowling for all his help. I couldnít have done it without him.

I was able to find all the parts I needed within about a week. Total construction time was about 8 hours. My Gonk has working lights in the faceplate. I used Radio Shack switches and lights. I worked on the wiring while the paint was drying. I will include what I did to get the lights to work but you donít need to do that for yours. This was a very easy and fun project. If you have any questions or need help, just e-mail me HERE

Sorry that there are no pictures. I am working on building another, hopefully soon, and will try to get some up here soon!

Tools Needed:

  1. drill
  2. dremel
  3. some sort of saw (hand, circular, table, etc)
  4. glue-gun
  5. eye protection!! (very important)
  6. good imagination



Materials needed:

(2) 58qt Sterilite tubs

Wal-mart - Total about $10.00

1 small sterilite food container

K-Mart - $1.50

1 can gray primer

Home Depot - $4.00

2 cans Rustolium black metallic paint

Home Depot - $10.00

Two spray can plastic tops (from black paint cans)

Comes with black paint ;)

1 package small "L" brackets (4 in package)

Home Depot - $3.00

Assorted nuts, bolts and screws

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1X2 wood

I looked in the Home Depot "Junk" bin. Found two 8' pieces for about $2.00

Assorted greeblies for faceplate

N/A

If using lights - Switch, lights, battery connectors and wire (all from Radio Shack)

Radio Shack - Approx. $15.00

Two plastic shoe containers (or Droidboys Gonk Feet)

Shoe containers - Approx. $8-$10. Gonk feet from Droidboy - $40 delivered

Dryer hose

Home Depot - $5.00

Metal shielded wire

Home Depot - $2.00

Square sheets of felt

Home Depot - $2.00


Steps:

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Cut out space for "faceplate" using the smaller container as a guide. Make sure it isnít too tight a fit.

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Primer the tubs and plastic parts.

Build main support using the 1X2 wood. I measured the width at the bottom of the tub and subtracted about 1 to 2 inches. That measurement became section 1. Sections 2 are the height from the floor to the top of the droid. You can make that any length you want, but make sure you have enough dryer hose to accomidate. Mine was about 3 feet or so. Section 3 is a brace the holds the legs together at an equal distance. This should be about 12"-15" down from the top.

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Cut holes in feet for legs.

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Slide dryer hose over legs, secure to legs.

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Put legs into holes on feet.

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Attach wooden feet to legs. Brace feet with "L" brackets.

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Close and glue the lids on the shoe containers (droid feet), screw them into the bottom of the wooden feet.

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Create "faceplate" with container and greeblies (lights too if you wish). Click HERE to see the wiring diagram I used for mine.

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Attach both halves of body together . Drill holes through both tubs in the corners and attach with bolts. Use the Glue-gun on the under side to secure nuts.

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Cut hole in bottom container for legs to slide into.

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Slide legs into body, screw to top container.

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Add power connectors to body (paintcan tops).

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Attach faceplate to top half with glue-gun.

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Drill 2 holes in the underside of the body behind the legs and another 2 holes in the back of the "feet". Measure enought metal shielded wire to reach from one hole to another and add a few inches for slack. Cut wire and insert into holes from body to feet. Glue-gun them into place. Touch up with grey primer

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Paint the body (and legs if you wish).

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Cut felt squares and apply to bottom of feet.

There you have it, your very own power droid!